Spray Polyurethane Foam Insulation

June 13, 2014

ImageWelcome to part one of a four part series on Spray Polyurethane Foam SPF Insulation.  Spray polyurethane foam SPF insulation, the best thing since sliced bread, the greatest energy saving “Green” insulation available, Right?

I can’t remember a building product with such a clearly defined love or hate following.  When I say love, it’s typically described by the “Green” movement as I did above, safe, energy efficient, “Green”, and even healthy. That’s right!  It’s often touted as a product that will improve your indoor air quality.  These guys are hard core supporters and believers, a solid mix of manufactures, applicators, builders, and homeowners.

But if you’re on the hate side of the issue, you’re just as emotionally involved in the product.  You just see things from a different perspective.  Often the hate side of the love-hate relationship evolves from a regrettable spray polyurethane foam insulation experience, a botched job, miss-application, or unfortunate exposure to the SPF chemicals.  If your opinion of SPF is based on any of these issues, then your opinion is based on a vivid and tangible perspective based on a very personal experience.  That will drive passion.

How to ensure that your home has SPF installed properly and what you need to ensure your applicator knows his “stuff” is the reason for this series. While the products are all very similar, it’s the applicator and his or her training and experience that truly matters.  Following at a very close second, is your home and the impact of the sealed attic has on your existing home.
In the next few editions, we are going to discuss the unadvertised side of SPF.  Let’s face it, the industry has a great marketing department and the product works great when properly applied.  So we’ll be discussing the issues with misapplied SPF as well as the design changes that accompany altering a home’s attic from natural (passive) ventilation to a sealed mechanically semi-conditioned attic.

It’s very important to understand the specific changes that take place when you seal your attic.  There are factors that must be considered such as a 50 year old attic with an accumulation of dust, debris, and possibly pesticides that are now a sealed attic and part of the indoor environment. NOT good. I personally don’t feel that any SPF applicator can clean a 50 year old attic well enough for me to feel comfortable breathing the now shared attic air that is now semi-conditioned occupied space.  And that is exactly what will happen when you seal an attic and semi-condition it.

We’ll take a closer look at how to investigate SPF complaints and how to identify miss-applied SPF.  For example, some would prefer to collect air samples to identify the chemicals present in your home and attic as you see in photos A and B.  That will run you somewhere around $5,000.00. Ouch…

Or you can actually inspect the applied SPF and identify areas of unreacted SPF as shown in photo C or SPF on light fixtures as shown in photo D.  This approach will cost you or your builder nothing and the industry provides the guidance documents for the inspection.  Both approaches will provide you with information but the information gathered from the actual inspection of the applied product will provide more relevant information.

Whether you are a lover or a hater, these articles will provide you with solid information for spray pollyurethane foam insulation.
If you are trying to decide if SPF is going to be a part of your home’s remodel, addition, or home improvement, then the article titled “Is Spray Polyurethane Foam Insulation right for you?” will be good information.  This article will help inform you of a few issues with an existing home with a traditionally vented attic that you may be considering reinsulating with SPF.  As good as SPF insulation is, sometimes it’s just not a good choice.

If you want to know how SPF can compromise your indoor air quality even when it is correctly installed then the article titled “Spray Polyurethane Foam Insulation Build it Tight and Ventilate it Right” will be the series article for you.  A tightly sealed home will not meet the required ventilation rate and will require outdoor air supply.  Depending on where you live, this may require the use of an ERV (energy recovery ventilator), an HRV (heat recovery ventilator), or a mechanical dehumidifier.  All three will require alterations to your homes HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) system.

If you want to know what it takes to properly inspect applied Spray Polyurethane Foam Insulation, then the article titled “Inspecting Spray Polyurethane Foam Insulation What to Look For” will be perfect for you.  So you have an issue with your installed SPF, what is your next step?  Do you hire a chemist? An IAQ indoor air quality consultant? Well, I believe you should hire someone who is extremely familiar with inspecting the SPF.  Not just someone that has performed several SPF inspections but someone familiar with SPF.  Yes, there is a substantial difference.  Many who provide SPF investigations never look at the SPF.   They simply collect air samples and declare the product as dangerous and in need of removal.  While SPF can be misapplied, the issues with SPF aren’t always the result of misapplied SPF.   This article will help clarify who and how to properly inspect your installed SPF.

Stay tuned for great information regarding the use and misuse of Spray Polyurethane Foam Insulation.

 

To learn more about Mr. Lapotaire or Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC, please visit www.FloridaIAQ.com, email info@FloridaIAQ.com or call (407) 383-9459.

About Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC

Since 2001, Florida residents have turned to the indoor environmental experts at Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC.  The family owned and operated companies, based in the Orlando area, offer a comprehensive approach to identifying and correcting comfort and indoor air quality problems.  Their expert staff utilizes the latest technologies and industry recognized standards to identify and resolve indoor environmental issues.

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Take Control of Your Indoor Air

May 12, 2014

ImageBy John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) is a hot topic today as more of us are acquiring allergies.  We seem to be inundated with allergy statistics graphs and charts reminding us that we can only expect more of the same.  So what can we do to create our own little safe house or sanctuary?  We can take control of the Indoor Air of our homes.  The outdoor Air Quality will change with the seasons and we will need to adjust to the varying allergens introduced into the air.  But when you get home you can relax and enjoy your Indoor Air Quality if you follow a few simple housekeeping suggestions.

We should first understand that Indoor Air Quality is the effect the air inside your home has on you and your family.  Good IAQ means the air in your home has no unwanted gases or particulates at concentrations that could negatively affect you and your family.  That leaves us with poor IAQ which occurs when gasses or particulates are present at an excessive concentration in your home and affects the satisfaction or health of you and your family.

IAQ isn’t that hard to understand or identify.  We can all tell the difference between a cool mountain meadow and a city landfill. Good IAQ, Poor IAQ.  Everything else lies somewhere between the two.  What separates the good from the bad are 3 basic areas of indoor air pollutants described by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) as Particulates, Bioaerosols and Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s).  What makes up the air in your home are varying amounts of these three pollutants.

The CDC describes the three pollutants as; Particulates are common indoor air particulates including dirt, dust, fibers, tobacco smoke, and fireplace or wood stove soot. These airborne particles can range from 0.1 microns in size to 100 microns in size.  Bioaerosols are microorganisms or particles, gases, vapors, or fragments of biological origin (i.e., alive or released from a living organism) that are in the air. Bioaerosols are everywhere in the environment. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s) are carbon-based chemicals that easily evaporate at room temperature. Some VOC’s have odors other VOC’s have none. Odor does not indicate the level of risk. There are thousands of different VOC’s produced and used in our daily lives.

To take control of these three pollutants that can create poor indoor air quality in your home I have created 4 primary areas that you can address that will have an immediate impact on the homes indoor air quality.
1.Particulates
2.Humidity
3.Filtration
4.House Keeping.

Let’s start with Particulates. Particulates accumulate in the home from both inside and outside sources that can include:  Some of the common Indoor Particulate Sources include:
o Pet dander
o Candles
o Incense
o Perfume
o House Plants
o Fungal spores
o Pollen
o Tobacco smoke

These sources can be controlled and or eliminated from a home by controlling the source.  That means no smoking in the home.  No air fresheners, candles or incense, these introduce particulates to the home and mask air quality issues that should be addressed directly, not hidden by air fresheners.  I would minimize house plants including plastic and silk.  Live plants live in nice damp soil that is a breeding ground for fungus and mold which can lead to the introduction of spores and plastic and silk plants can hold onto particulate releasing them each time they are disturbed.  Unfortunately these plastic and silk plants are rarely cleaned and the amount of particulates they can introduce when disturbed is substantial.

Next you’ll need to keep a healthy level of humidity in your home.  Dust mites and mold love moisture so keeping humidity around 30%-50% will help keep dust mites and other allergens under control.  The addition of a humidistat and dehumidifier can greatly improve the indoor air quality of your home.  The humidistat turns on the homes air conditioning when the humidity reaches the set relative humidity (preferably not higher than 55%rh) just as the thermostat activates the homes air conditioning when the temperature reaches a set temperature (preferably not higher than 76°F).

Maintaining the proper humidity level helps reduce moisture in the indoor air and can effectively control allergens.  

High humidity levels in Florida can produce musty odor and/or a clammy feeling to the air in the summer and condensation on windows in the winter.

Often the principal source of higher humidity in a home is a family’s living habits. One person’s breathing produces 1/4 cup of water per hour, cooking for a family of four produces approximately five pints of water in 24 hours, showering puts 1/2 pint of water into the air.  Bathing puts 1/8 pint of water into the air.  Adding only four to six pints of water to the air raises the relative humidity in a 1,000 square foot home from 15 to 60 percent, assuming the temperature is constant.

Next on our list is Filtration.   Each time the air conditioning system cycles air into the home, armies of particulates are propelled through the supply ducts and discharged throughout your home into the air your family breathes.  More specifically the air you breathe is filled with the particulates allowed to pass through your air conditioning filter.  The filtration you choose has a tremendous affect on your indoor air quality so you should use the highest level of filtration that your system allows.

There are many filters available on the market today.  The most common are the one inch filters found in supermarkets, hardware stores and home supply retailers. All these filters guarantee a percentage of effectiveness, but that can be misleading. 

Standard throwaway filters are only designed to protect the air handler. And have little or no capability of collecting fine particles.  Washable Filters are very restrictive to airflow and are difficult to clean thoroughly and are rarely maintained at the proper level.  Electronic Air Cleaners are 95% efficient at .3 microns when new and clean. They reduce in efficiency very quickly as they load with particles and are difficult to clean thoroughly.  Many home owners just don’t take the time to properly clean these clean these filters on a regular basis, so they rarely works at the efficiency they were designed for.  Large 4 to 5 Inch Media Filters have a large amount of filter surface and allow for good air flow.  They can collect a large amount of dust and particles above one micron in size and most don’t have to be replaced for 6 to 12 months.  These filters are typically MERV rated at 8 to 11.

So now a I know you are asking Who is Merv and should I trust him with my filter? Well Merv isn’t a “He” MERV is an industry standard.  A standard rating system that can be used to compare filters made by different companies.   The MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating of a filter describes the size of the holes in the filter that allow air to pass through.  In a nut shell the higher the MERV rating, the smaller the holes in the filter, the higher the efficiency.  Residential filters commonly have MERV ratings of 1-11. The higher the MERV rating, the more efficient the filter is, and the more particles it can filter.
o A MERV rating of 6 means the filter is 35% to 50% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
o A MERV rating of 7 means the filter is 50% to 70% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
o A MERV rating of 8 means the filter is 70% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
o A MERV rating of 11 means the filter is 85% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns. 

Now for the House keeping side of air quality improvement.   You first to reduce the humidity in the home by using your range, bathroom and cooking exhaust fans.  You should also ensure that they are vented to the outside.  You should check your dryer exhaust vent regularly to ensure it isn’t clogged.  Reduce the number of plants in the home and/or water them less so they release less water vapor.  And you can add a humidistat and mechanical dehumidifier to your air conditioning system.  So IAQ is a piece of cake.

Now you need to get rid of those pesky particulates. The key to that is to Collect and Remove.  You can collect and remove particles by using a HEPA vacuum.  Don’t forget to vacuum all porous surfaces including upholstered furniture. For best results, vacuum two or more times each week and change your HEPA filter regularly.  On tile floors you can collect and remove particles by mopping which will collect the dust that your HEPA vacuuming leaves behind. You can skip the soaps and cleaners and just use plain water to capture any lingering dust or allergens. There are also new microfiber mops that reportedly capture more dust and dirt than traditional mops and don’t require any cleaning solutions whatsoever.  Okay there may be a bit of an investment here for a HEPA vacuum, but I can assure you it will be worth it.

For the particle dust build up within the home you will need to collect and remove it as well.  For most people this means dusting using a simple feather duster, or a cloth of some kind, and some kind of dusting spray. This just relocates the dust particulates and introduces bioaerosols & VOC’s into the air.  Remember the key is to collect and remove not relocate.   I recommend using the new microfiber dust cloth that can capture more dust and dirt than traditional fibers and don’t require any cleaning solutions whatsoever.

To help prevent the particulates from entering the home, place large floor mats at every door. People track in all sorts of particles via the dirt on their shoes. A door mat reduces the amount of dirt, pesticides, and other pollutants from getting into your home. If the mat is big enough, even those who don’t wipe their shoes will leave most pollutants on the mat — not the floors in the home.

Don’t forget to change your air conditioning filters every 30 days or as prescribed by the Manufacturer.  Not maintaining your air conditioning filter is a major source of indoor air problems.  Some of the higher MERV rated media filters can be changed as infrequently as every 6 months.   While you are changing that filter check you’re A/C drain line and every 3 months flush it with an algae control cleaner to prevent clogging.

Remember to keep your home dry: Control humidity levels between 35% and 50% to prevent dust mites and an indoor environment that can lead to mold growth.  Fix any leaks you have in your home as soon as you find them.  If you have a flood, take immediate action and dry the area out, including all affected furnishings, within 48 hours to prevent mold growth.

So when asked what you can do about the “Air You Breathe” you will have plenty to say because you know what is in the air you breathe.  And you know that Good IAQ for people already suffering from allergies can reduce the symptoms of those allergies, often reduce medications for allergies, and lead to more relaxing sleep.  You also know that Good Indoor Air Quality can have a substantial impact on our children by preventing allergies, delaying the occurrence of an allergy, or the reduction of allergy symptoms.

Now you can say “Healthier Air Starts Here!”

To learn more about Mr. Lapotaire or Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC, please visit www.FloridaIAQ.com, email info@FloridaIAQ.com or call (407) 383-9459.

About Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC

Since 2001, Florida residents have turned to the indoor environmental experts at Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC.  The family owned and operated companies, based in the Orlando area, offer a comprehensive approach to identifying and correcting comfort and indoor air quality problems.  Their expert staff utilizes the latest technologies and industry recognized standards to identify and resolve indoor environmental issues.

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

 

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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Chemical Free Mold Remediation

May 12, 2014

ImageMold Remediation is the process of removing mold while protecting unaffected areas of a home or office from unnecessary cross contamination.  At no time is it necessary to KILL Mold.  Mold must be Removed regardless of its ability to germinate and grow into a colony.  The safest way to end the life cycle of mold is to simply eliminate the water source that is allowing the mold to grow.  Removing the water source is far safer that using Biocides and you will still need to remove the mold regardless of the molds viability.

Remember ALL Mold Remediation Should be Chemical Free Mold Remediation.

The Florida Department of Health

The goal should be to remove mold growth by cleaning or removing moldy materials. Dead mold can still pose health risks if you are exposed.

Ozone irritates lungs, and is not likely to be effective at addressing an indoor mold problem. No one should expose themselves or others to ozone on purpose. Address the cause of the mold (usually moisture) and then remove the mold by cleaning surfaces or removing moldy materials.

We know that we’ll never be able to eliminate all of the mold from within our home or office.  But we can prevent it from growing within our home or office by eliminating the moisture that supports its growth.  The sources of moisture that support mold growth include elevations of humidity above 60%, plumbing leaks, and building envelope failure such as roof and window leaks.

If mold is found to be growing in your home or office due to an elevation in humidity, leak, or an unfortunate water loss, you need to first identify the moisture source that is supporting the mold growth to correct and prevent continued mold growth. Then, collect and remove the mold and water damaged building material from the indoor environment.

Mold only needs a few things to grow and multiply:

  • Nutrients (food – almost anything)
  • A suitable place to grow (almost anywhere)
  • Moisture

Eliminating any one will prevent the mold from growing.  What you’re left with is the mold that can become airborne and directly affect the occupants.  This mold must be collected and removed from your home or office.

We know that there is no shortage of “Quick Fix” Ozone or Chemical using mold remediators out there that will chemically fog your home or office and affordably “Kill” your mold, but guess what?  Your mold is still there.  Without the moisture you corrected the mold wouldn’t have regrown anyway.  Now you have the mold (allergen) covered in a chemical (poisonous both to the mold and humans) and is now a “poisonous allergen” waiting to become airborne and potentially impact the occupants.

There is no need to expose anyone to Ozone, Hydroxyls, Biocides, Disinfectants, Fungicides, Anti-microbials, and Encapsulants during Mold Remediation.

Our Mold Remediation Protocols are written to protect or clients from the dust up of mold during the removal and the unnecessary use of chemicals.  Our Protocols are designed to collect and remove the mold from your home or office without the use of chemicals.

Our goal is to protect our Clients from exposure to Ozone, Hydroxyls, Biocides, Disinfectants, Fungicides, Anti-microbials, and Encapsulants during Mold Remediation.  The unnecessary use of these products are Forbiden.

All of our Mold Remediation Protocols include the following statement:

Ozone, Hydroxyls, Biocides, Disinfectants, se Fungicides, Anti-microbials, and Encapsulants must not be used unless specified in this protocol.  If chemical use is specified in this protocol, the chemicals can only be applied in the specific areas identified in this protocol.

If chemical use is specified in this protocol the chemicals will be used for the purpose of Disinfection of the Category 3 water damaged areas and not for the purpose of Killing or Removing Mold.

If the remediation contractor would like to apply chemicals in any way not specified in this protocol, the Remediator must obtain written permission from the IAQ Solutions IEP.

IICRC S-520
Source removal of mold contamination should always be the primary means of remediation.  The Indiscriminant use of antimicrobial products, coatings, sealants, and cleaning chemicals is not recommended.

NYCDH New York City Department of Health
“The use of gaseous, vapor-phase, or aerosolized biocides for remedial purposes is not recommended. The use of biocides in this manner can pose health concerns for people in occupied spaces of the building and for people returning to the treated space if used improperly.

AIHA American Industrial Hygiene Association
The goal of remediation is removal of mold and the moisture source because:
    a) biocides do not alter mycotoxins or allergens;
    b) it is generally not possible to get 100 percent kill with biocides; and
    c) because of (b), the newly deposited spores, re-growth will occur after the biocides if moisture returns

OSHA Occupational Safety and Health Administration
The use of a biocide, such as chlorine bleach, is not recommended as a routine practice during mold remediation, although there may be instances where professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immuno-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area, as a background level of mold spores comparable to the level in outside air will persist. However, the spores in the ambient air will not cause further problems if the moisture level in the building has been corrected. Biocides are toxic to animals and humans, as well as to mold.

U.S. EPA Environmental Protection Agency
“The purpose of mold remediation is to remove the mold to prevent human exposure and damage to building materials and furnishings. It is necessary to clean up mold contamination, not just to kill the mold. Dead mold is still allergenic, and some dead molds are potentially toxic.  Whether dead or alive, mold is allergenic, and some molds may be toxic.

To learn more about Mr. Lapotaire or Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC, please visit www.FloridaIAQ.com, email info@FloridaIAQ.com or call (407) 383-9459.

About Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC

Since 2001, Florida residents have turned to the indoor environmental experts at Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC.  The family owned and operated companies, based in the Orlando area, offer a comprehensive approach to identifying and correcting comfort and indoor air quality problems.  Their expert staff utilizes the latest technologies and industry recognized standards to identify and resolve indoor environmental issues.

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

 

 

 

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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Chemical Free Mold Remediation

May 12, 2014

Mold Remediation is the process of removing mold while protecting unaffected areas of a home or office from unnecessary cross contamination.  At no time is it necessary to KILL Mold.  Mold must be Removed regardless of its ability to germinate and grow into a colony.  The safest way to end the life cycle of mold is to simply eliminate the water source that is allowing the mold to grow.  Removing the water source is far safer that using Biocides and you will still need to remove the mold regardless of the molds viability.

So Remember ALL Mold Remediation Should be Chemical Free Mold Remediation.

The Florida Department of Health
The goal should be to remove mold growth by cleaning or removing moldy materials. Dead mold can still pose health risks if you are exposed.

Ozone irritates lungs, and is not likely to be effective at addressing an indoor mold problem. No one should expose themselves or others to ozone on purpose. Address the cause of the mold (usually moisture) and then remove the mold by cleaning surfaces or removing moldy materials.

We know that we’ll never be able to eliminate all of the mold from within our home or office.  But we can prevent it from growing within our home or office by eliminating the moisture that supports its growth.  The sources of moisture that support mold growth include elevations of humidity above 60%, plumbing leaks, and building envelope failure such as roof and window leaks.

If mold is found to be growing in your home or office due to an elevation in humidity, leak, or an unfortunate water loss, you need to first identify the moisture source that is supporting the mold growth to correct and prevent continued mold growth. Then, collect and remove the mold and water damaged building material from the indoor environment.

Mold only needs a few things to grow and multiply:

    Nutrients (food – almost anything)
    A suitable place to grow (almost anywhere)
    Moisture

Eliminating any one will prevent the mold from growing.  What you’re left with is the mold that can become airborne and directly affect the occupants.  This mold must be collected and removed from your home or office.

We know that there is no shortage of “Quick Fix” Ozone or Chemical using mold remediators out there that will chemically fog your home or office and affordably “Kill” your mold, but guess what?  Your mold is still there.  Without the moisture you corrected the mold wouldn’t have regrown anyway.  Now you have the mold (allergen) covered in a chemical (poisonous both to the mold and humans) and is now a “poisonous allergen” waiting to become airborne and potentially impact the occupants.

There is no need to expose anyone to Ozone, Hydroxyls, Biocides, Disinfectants, Fungicides, Anti-microbials, and Encapsulants during Mold Remediation.

Our Mold Remediation Protocols are written to protect or clients from the dust up of mold during the removal and the unnecessary use of chemicals.  Our Protocols are designed to collect and remove the mold from your home or office without the use of chemicals.

Our goal is to protect our Clients from exposure to Ozone, Hydroxyls, Biocides, Disinfectants, Fungicides, Anti-microbials, and Encapsulants during Mold Remediation.  The unnecessary use of these products are Forbiden.

All of our Mold Remeiation Protocols include the following statement:

Ozone, Hydroxyls, Biocides, Disinfectants, se Fungicides, Anti-microbials, and Encapsulants must not be used unless specified in this protocol.  If chemical use is specified in this protocol, the chemicals can only be applied in the specific areas identified in this protocol.

If chemical use is specified in this protocol the chemicals will be used for the purpose of Disinfection of the Category 3 water damaged areas and not for the purpose of Killing or Removing Mold.

If the remediation contractor would like to apply chemicals in any way not specified in this protocol, the Remediator must obtain written permission from the IAQ Solutions IEP.

IICRC S-520
Source removal of mold contamination should always be the primary means of remediation.  The Indiscriminant use of antimicrobial products, coatings, sealants, and cleaning chemicals is not recommended.

NYCDH New York City Department of Health
“The use of gaseous, vapor-phase, or aerosolized biocides for remedial purposes is not recommended. The use of biocides in this manner can pose health concerns for people in occupied spaces of the building and for people returning to the treated space if used improperly.

AIHA American Industrial Hygiene Association
The goal of remediation is removal of mold and the moisture source because:

  • biocides do not alter mycotoxins or allergens;
  • it is generally not possible to get 100 percent kill with biocides; and
  • the newly deposited spores, re-growth will occur after the biocides if moisture returns


OSHA Occupational Safety and Health Administration
The use of a biocide, such as chlorine bleach, is not recommended as a routine practice during mold remediation, although there may be instances where professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immuno-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area, as a background level of mold spores comparable to the level in outside air will persist. However, the spores in the ambient air will not cause further problems if the moisture level in the building has been corrected. Biocides are toxic to animals and humans, as well as to mold.

U.S. EPA Environmental Protection Agency
“The purpose of mold remediation is to remove the mold to prevent human exposure and damage to building materials and furnishings. It is necessary to clean up mold contamination, not just to kill the mold. Dead mold is still allergenic, and some dead molds are potentially toxic.  Whether dead or alive, mold is allergenic, and some molds may be toxic.

 

For more information about the Indoor Air Quality Association, please visit www.IAQA.org.

To learn more about Mr. Lapotaire or Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC, please visit www.FloridaIAQ.com, email info@FloridaIAQ.com or call (407) 383-9459.

About Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC

Since 2001, Florida residents have turned to the indoor environmental experts at Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC.  The family owned and operated companies, based in the Orlando area, offer a comprehensive approach to identifying and correcting comfort and indoor air quality problems.  Their expert staff utilizes the latest technologies and industry recognized standards to identify and resolve indoor environmental issues.

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

 

Leave a Comment » | Commercial IAQ, Residential IAQ | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Permalink
Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Is “new car smell” toxic?

March 23, 2014

by

New Car Smell

Most people seem to enjoy the smell of a new automobile. But is it possible that the fresh-off-the-dealer’s-lot odor could also make you sick? Dr. Heinz Linke

We all know what “new car smell” is, right? It’s the smell of the interior of, well, a new car. Most people like it and some people like it so much that they buy new-car-smell sprays and air fresheners that make the interiors of their cars smell new until they’re old enough to be towed off to the junkyard. But is it possible that new car smell could also make you sick?

A lot of people think so. There have been studies suggesting that at least a few of the chemicals that give a car that fresh-off-the-dealer’s-lot odor may be toxic and not all of them go away as the car gets older. But before we can answer the question of whether new car smell is or isn’t toxic, we have a more important question to answer: What exactly is new car smell made of, anyway?

That’s a tough question to answer. We can start by asking just what it is that we think we’re smelling when we climb into a brand new car interior. Some people think it smells like leather, but only luxury car interiors contain much in the way of actual leather and new car smell can even be found in economy cars. Other people think it smells a bit like plastic, but good plastic, not the cheap kind that $1.99 toys are made out of. Some people think it smells like … well, a whole lot of different chemicals.

That last group is closest to the mark. There really are a whole lot of chemicals making up the interior of a car and some of them release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the car’s interior, a process that has the somewhat unpleasant-sounding name “outgassing.” It’s these VOCs that produce new car smell, though some of them produce no odor at all. Some of these volatile chemicals, like ethyl benzene and formaldehyde, are also found in paints and glues, and they can cause problems like dizziness, headache, allergies or even cancer when inhaled in large enough quantities or for long enough periods of time. Some people have compared inhaling new car smell to glue sniffing or even sick-building syndrome.

But are there enough of these compounds in new car smell to make a fresh car interior truly unhealthy or would they require more exposure than the average driver is likely to get to them? The best way to find out is — you guessed it — to do a scientific study. Let’s talk about a couple of the studies that have been done and what they’ve found out.

Putting “New Car Smell” Under the Microscope

Questions about the toxicity of new car smell aren’t new. Neither are studies aimed at determining whether it’s a problem you should be seriously worried about. Probably the most recent of these studies was conducted in February of 2012 by a non-profit group called the Ecology Center. Their “Model Year 2011/2012 Guide to New Vehicles” (which you can download in PDF format here) is unequivocal on the issue: “[T]hese chemicals [in new car smell] can be harmful when inhaled or ingested and may lead to severe health impacts such as birth defects, learning disabilities and cancer. Since the average American spends more than 1.5 hours in a car every day, toxic chemical exposure inside vehicles is becoming a major source of potential indoor air pollution.” Whoa! That’s enough to make you want to wear a gas mask until your car’s old enough for the warranty to expire! But before you decide to buy only used cars for the rest of your driving life, they add that “some cars are better than others. Toxic chemicals are not required to make indoor auto parts, and some manufacturers have begun to phase them out.”

Okay, guys, let’s name some names. Which cars does the Ecology Center believe have the healthiest interiors? Their top five picks, starting with the healthiest, are the 2012 Honda Civic, 2011 Toyota Prius, the 2011 Honda CR-Z, the 2011 Nissan Cube and the 2012 Acura RDX. Check their PDF to see the rest of the top ten. The two cars with the least healthy interiors, according to the Ecology Center, are the 2011 Chrysler 200 S and, in last place, the 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport. Honda wins as having the line of cars with the healthiest interiors overall. The report concentrates on the presence of bromine (used in flame retardants), chlorine, and lead, grouping other volatile organic chemicals in a single category in their rankings. The report includes a list of hundreds of popular cars manufactured from 2006 to the present and lists the amount of each of these substances present in each car’s interior.

Fortunately, a lot of the volatile chemicals in a car’s interior go away over time — that’s why they call it “new car smell” — but they don’t go away completely and they can come back on hot days when the higher temperatures increase the rate of outgassing. One thing you can do to combat this process on hot days is to roll down the windows rather than using the air conditioner, letting fresh air circulate into the car and releasing the volatile compounds into the air outside (which isn’t necessarily good for the air outside, but it’s certainly better than being closed up in a car full of toxic fumes). You can also park your car in the shade, so it will stay reasonably cool.

Not all studies done over the years have agreed that new car smell is a danger to automobile occupants. A 2007 study conducted at the Technical University of Munich in Germany concluded that the chemical compounds released inside a car might at worst exacerbate allergies, but don’t pose any other significant threats to human health. The study was conducted by collecting air samples from the interiors of new cars and three-year-old cars placed under 14,000 watts of lights, which generated interior temperatures up to 150-degree Fahrenheit (65.6-degree Celsius), a lot hotter than the average car is likely to become under ordinary conditions. They then exposed human, mouse and hamster cells to these samples to look for toxic effects. None were found. The researchers concluded that new car smell isn’t toxic. However, the researchers also admitted that if the air inside an office building were found to have the same chemical content as the air samples found in the cars, the building would be declared to have sick-building syndrome and the workers would be sent home until it had been cured.

So in a sense both studies agree: Automobile interiors contain poisonous chemicals. But the Ecology Center feels that these chemicals represent a health threat to occupants and the German researchers do not. In the end, you’ll just have to choose which study you want to take seriously. And maybe roll down your windows a bit more than you usually do to let the bad air out.

Lots More Information

Author’s Note: Is “new car smell” toxic?

If I ever put together a list of my five favorite odors nobody would ever name a perfume after, I think new car smell would easily make the top five, right after freshly ground coffee beans and way ahead of wet paint. So it’s rather distressing to discover that it might be hazardous to my health. Given that researchers disagree on just how much of a danger the volatile chemicals in an automobile interior represent, you might not want to start wearing that gas mask quite yet. But I’ll confess that it made me feel a lot better to see that my own car, a 2011 Toyota Prius, was determined to have the second healthiest interior by the Ecology Center. Car buyers shopping for a healthy car would do well to look at the health rankings in their report.

 

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Most and least toxic cars? Tests rank 200 models

March 23, 2014

Vehicle VOC'sBy Wendy Koch, USA TODAY

Ever wonder about that “new car” smell?  In a report Wednesday that tests more than 200 vehicles, an environmental group says this off-gassing of chemicals is notably lower in some cars such as the Honda Civic ,Toyota Prius and Honda CR-Z.

Overall, there’s good news. Cars are reducing their use of chemicals, and the best have eliminated hazardous flame retardants and PVC (polyvinyl chloride), according to the fourth consumer guide on the topic by the non-profit, Ann Arbor-Mich. based Ecology Center.

Today, the guide finds that 17% of new vehicles have PVC-free interiors and 60%  are made without brominated flame retardants. Some of these chemicals — found on the steering wheel, dashboard, armrests and seats — have been linked to numerous health problems including allergies, impaired learning and liver toxicity.

“Vehicle interiors contain a unique cocktail of  hundreds of toxic chemicals that off-gas in small, confined spaces,” said Jeff Gearhart, research director at the Ecology Center, in announcing the findings.

The Vinyl Institute, an industry group, objected to the report. Allen Blakey, its vice president of government affairs, said PVC is widely used in consumer and construction products and is not a “toxic” chemical. He said many of its products are regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration or Consumer Product Safety Commission.

“The Ecology Center likes to issue scary reports about materials in cars and homes, but in fact they have no data showing actual injuries, and, in fact, no data showing exposures that would suggest harm,” Blakey said in a statement. ” It is not even certain that their analyses are correct, since X-ray fluorescence devices are sensitive tools that must be carefully calibrated.”

Gearhart said cars are particularly harsh environments for plastics, because high temperatures can  increase the concentration of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and  break other chemicals down into more toxic substances. “Automobiles function as chemical reactors, creating one of the most hazardous environments we spend time in,” he added.

The scorecard gave tops honors to the Honda Civic, because it said the car has no bromine-based flame retardants in interior components, uses PVC-free interior  fabrics and interior trim and has low levels of heavy metals and  other metal allergens.

In contrast, it gave the lowest overall score to the Mitsubishi Outlander, which it said contained bromine and antimony-based flame  retardants in the seating and center console; chromium treated leather  on several components; and over 400 parts per million lead in seating  materials.

The findings, posted on the HealthyStuff.org website, include:

  • Most improved automakers in terms of the average ratings for their  2011/2012 vehicles — compared to their 2009/20120 models — are  Volkswagen (+42%), Mitsubishi (+38%) and Ford (+30%.)
  • Two automakers had overall declining average scores: Daimler AG (-29%) and Volvo (-13%.)
  • In recent years, automakers have begun replacing PVC with  polyurethanes and polyolefins, which contain fewer harmful additives and  are easier to recycle.

 

 

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

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Orlando’s Indoor Air Quality Expert Elected to IAQA’s International Board of Directors

March 22, 2014

Indoor Air Quality Association IAQA #IAQSJohn P. Lapotaire, CIEC, has been elected to a six-year term on the Indoor Air Quality Association’s (IAQA) Board of Directors.

Orlando, FL, March 24th, 2014

Last week, the Indoor Air Quality Association concluded their 17th Annual Meeting & Conference in Nashville, Tennessee. The event is the indoor air quality (IAQ) industry’s premier conference and brings together professionals from across the globe.

During the annual meeting, elections were held for a number of important leadership positions within IAQA.  They included positions for both Officers and Directors that provide critical direction for IAQA’s continued growth and mission.  John P. Lapotaire, one of Florida’s most recognized indoor air quality experts, was elected by the association to serve a 6-year term as a member of the Board of Directors.

Mr. Lapotaire is the Founder and President of Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC.  The Orlando-based companies provide indoor air quality consulting services that include healthy building performance, home and office assessments, IAQ inspections, mold inspections and building envelop consulting services.  Mr. Lapotaire is a Florida Licensed Mold Assessor, Radon Measurement Technician and Radon Mitigation Specialist.  He is also a Council-certified Environmental Thermography Consultant (CETC) and a Council-certified Indoor Environmental Consultant (CIEC).  In his many years of providing IAQ related services, Mr. Lapotaire has been called upon to perform thousands of investigations in everything from residential and commercial properties to schools and other institutional settings.

Mr. Lapotaire has been active in a number of industry associations including:

  • American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
  • Indoor Environmental Standards Organization (IESO)
  • American Council for Accredited Certification (ACAC)
  • Building Enclosure Technology and Environment Council (BETEC)
  • Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC)

“It is a privilege and honor to serve on the Board of Directors for the IAQA, an organization I have supported since joining back in 2001,” said Mr. Lapotaire.  “Indoor air quality issues impact so many people and I look forward to sharing my knowledge and experiences in helping to continue to strengthen IAQA’s mission to bring together practitioners of this profession to prevent and solve indoor environmental problems for the benefit of the public.”

For more information about the Indoor Air Quality Association, please visit www.IAQA.org.

To learn more about Mr. Lapotaire or Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC, please visit www.FloridaIAQ.com, email info@FloridaIAQ.com or call (407) 383-9459.

About Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC

Since 2001, Florida residents have turned to the indoor environmental experts at Indoor Air Quality Solutions & Microshield Environmental Services, LLC.  The family owned and operated companies, based in the Orlando area, offer a comprehensive approach to identifying and correcting comfort and indoor air quality problems.  Their expert staff utilizes the latest technologies and industry recognized standards to identify and resolve indoor environmental issues.

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

#IAQS

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Antimicrobial Use During Mold Remediation #IAQS

December 15, 2013

IAQS Bio-HazardThe goal of mold remediation is to remove or clean mold contaminated materials in a way that prevents the emission of mold and dust contaminated with mold from leaving a work area and entering an occupied or non-remediation area, while protecting the health of workers performing the mold remediation.  The goal is not to kill the mold it’s to collect and remove it.

The first step in solving an indoor mold problem is stopping the source of moisture. Next is to remove the mold growth.  Next is the proper cleaning and removal of mold contaminated personal property and building material. The proper method is the collection and removal of the mold. Improper methods for cleaning mold include the application of fungicides and biocides to kill mold. These methods may render the mold non-viable (dead or incapable of growth); however, the mold and its by-products can still elicit negative health effects. The mold is still and allergen in your home until its removed.

A mold spore is an allergen that may or may not have the presence of mycotoxins.  Some of these mold spores have the ability to germinate and may eventually grow to be a colony.  To prevent this we correct the moisture that was supporting the mold growth and wala the mold will not have the available moisture to grow.  Now all we have to do is collect the remaining allergens (aka mold spores) and remove them from the home.

If we simply apply fungicides or biocides to kill the mold so it won’t grow we still have the mold spore or allergen that may or may not have the presence of mycotoxins.  But…the mold spores are still in your home, still an allergen, still have the potential of containing mycotoxins, and are now completely covered in a poison, just Wonderful.  And the poisonous mold still needs to be removed.

New York City Department of Health NYCDH

“The use of gaseous, vapor-phase, or aerosolized biocides for remedial purposes is not recommended. The use of biocides in this manner can pose health concerns for people in occupied spaces of the building and for people returning to the treated space if used improperly.

American Industrial Hygiene Association AIHA

The goal of remediation is removal of mold and the moisture source because: a) biocides do not alter mycotoxins or allergens; b) it is generally not possible to get 100 percent kill with biocides; and c) because of (b), the newly deposited spores, re-growth will occur after the biocides if moisture returns.

North American Air Duct Cleaning Association NADCA position on Sanitizing Ductwork

The EPA has not registered any products for sanitizing or disinfecting ductwork. Further, no fungicides are registered for use in ductwork. It is a violation of federal law to use a product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. For antimicrobials, this law is the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA). Therefore, any claims of sanitizing or disinfecting ductwork would require the use of a product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling, which is a violation of FIFRA.

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency EPA

“The purpose of mold remediation is to remove the mold to prevent human exposure and damage to building materials and furnishings. It is necessary to clean up mold contamination, not just to kill the mold. Dead mold is still allergenic, and some dead molds are potentially toxic.

John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

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IT’S NOT THE HEAT, IT’S THE HUMIDITY

December 9, 2013

ImageHumidity control was the problem that originally spurred the need for air conditioning. Lack of humidity control in hot, humid climates, in particular, can lead to mold growth and other moisture-related problems. High indoor humidities can lead to health and comfort problems.

Modern air conditioners dehumidify as they cool; you can see that by the water that drains away, but this dehumidification is incidental to their main job of controlling temperature. They cannot independently control both temperature and humidity.

In hot, humid climates the incidental dehumidification that occurs may not always be enough to keep the indoor humidity conditions acceptable. (ASHRAE recommends roughly a 60% relative humidity maximum at 78F.) The maximum dehumidification happens not at the hot times of the year—when the air conditioner is running a lot—but at mild times of the year when the air conditioner runs very little.

Although there are some leading edge air conditioning systems that promise to independently control humidity, conventional systems may not be able to sufficiently control the problem and can cause comfort or mold problems in certain situations. Some current high-end systems have enhanced dehumidification, but when the existing system cannot sufficiently dehumidify, it may be necessary to buy a stand-alone dehumidifier.   There are things that consumers can do to lessen the need for dehumidification:

Do not set your thermostat to the “fan on” position. In this position the fan blows air all the time whether your cooling system is running or not and one key impact is that a lot of the moisture your system just took out of the air, will be blown back into the house before it can drain way.

Use exhaust fans during moisture-producing activities. Cooking, bathing, washing, and similar activities produce a lot of moisture inside the home. Exhaust that moisture directly outdoors using a fan. Similarly, avoid drying clothes indoors except with a clothes dryer that is exhausted directly outdoors.

Do not open windows or use ventilative cooling when it is too humid outside

 

Full Story at ASHRAE https://www.ashrae.org/resources–publications/free-resources/top-ten-things-about-air-conditioning 

 

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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC

Mold Scam Alert! Homeowners Beware!

June 29, 2013

Mold Scam Alert! Homeowner Beware!In a perfect world you could trust everyone, but it’s not a perfect world. Like every industry, the mold business has its share of scammers and con men seeking to profit from your lack of knowledge about mold. Here are the top 8 mold scams and tips on how to avoid them.

Mold Scam # 1: Mold Inspectors Who provide Mold Remediation.

The worst perpetrators of mold scams are “mold inspectors” who are also in the mold remediation business. Mold remediation is a very profitable business. Many mold remediation contractors use free or deeply discounted mold inspections as a means to drum up expensive remediation jobs for themselves.

This is a common scam that works almost every time if the mold remediation company does not have a independent 3rd party mold assessor. Remediators should have an independent 3rd party reviewing work to ensure cleanup is complete.

How to Avoid It: If someone is offering a FREE mold inspection you should be cautious. Almost always a “Free” mold inspection will find mold which results in extra work. Mold inspectors should never base their opinion solely on the outcome of a laboratory report. The best way to avoid this mold scam is to hire an inspector who is not in the remediation business and ensure that the remediation company you hire is agrees to independent 3rd party review of ALL of their work. That’s the only way to ensure an unbiased inspection report.

Mold Scam # 2: Free Post-Remediation Verification or Clearance Testing.

The final step in the mold remediation process is a post-remediation verification inspection aka mold clearance inspection conducted to verify and document that the remediation was in fact successful.

The post-remediation verification inspection should be conducted before any re-construction work begins so the mold inspector can visually see that there is no mold left on the remediated materials. Many mold remediation contractors offer “FREE” post-remediation verification inspections or clearance testing.  The post-remediation verification inspection or clearance testing is vital to the mold remediation process.  Insurance companies, mortgage lenders and prospective buyers of your property in the future will want to see written confirmation that the mold issue was resolved.

Post-remediation clearance testing should never be performed by a mold remediation contractor waiting to get paid for his work. With thousands of dollars on the line, it‘s highly unlikely that a mold remediation contractor will fail his own work.

How to Avoid It: The way to avoid this scam is the same as Mold Scam #1. Have you post-remediation verification or clearance test performed by an independent 3rd party Licensed Mold Inspector who does not work for your remediation contractor.

Mold Scam # 3: Encapsulating Fungal Growth.

Encapsulation is a trade term used by certain mold remediation contractors. The goal of encapsulation is to essentially cover or glue any remaining mold in place to prevent the release of spores. This is possible to do and may even be the preferred (or the only realistic or economic) method of choice is some cases. However, if you have fixed the water problem, dried the remediated materials and removed all of the mold growth, encapsulation should is not necessary.

As a rule, encapsulation is not an acceptable stand-alone solution for a successful remediation project. For prevention purposes, there are now proven treatment products that work to prevent the return of mold to the newly installed building materials – these are not encapsulates as they are not designed to cover the mold. Deciding To Encapsulate: In the remediation process, contractors will scrape, sand, grind, and wire brush as much mold as they can from salvageable construction materials such as studs, ceiling and floor joists. At some point they determine that they have removed as much mold growth as possible for the amount of money they are charging you. At that point, if your contractor is confident in his work, he will inform you that your project is ready for a post-remediation survey and clearance test.

If they are not completely confident that the job will pass a post-remediation air test, often times they will spray a sealant (or encapsulate) over the construction materials inside the containment area. There are four reasons why contractors decide to encapsulate: The Legitimate Reasons: He suspects that there may still be traces of mold left in areas that cannot be accessed without major demolition and encapsulating those areas will inhibit spore release.

He suspects there is a possibility that moisture is still a factor in or around the remediated area and, as a precautionary measure, he wants to apply a water seal treatment to the salvaged materials to protect them from that moisture.

There are contractors who process their work to exemplary levels and then apply „shields‟ for future prevention purposes – these contractors will allow for testing at the client‟s discretion as they normally pass whether at the end of remediation or after applying their final step products. The Scam Reason: His work is sub-standard. He simply did a bad job of remediation the mold and to hide his poor workmanship, he uses encapsulation (usually a solid color) to “paint over” it. How To Tell the Difference:

When encapsulation is done properly by a responsible remediation contractor, the encapsulate product should always be clear so that a third-party Inspector can visually see the remediated materials in this post-remediation survey and confirm that no mold growth remains. When encapsulation is done to cover up a bad job, the contractor will use a solid color encapsulate product (typically red or white) to hide whatever mold they left behind, making it impossible for the Inspector to verify that all mold has been removed.

Some unscrupulous contractors try to encapsulate with KILZ, which is just a stain killing paint with absolutely no anti-microbial properties or ability to encapsulate mold spores. Some actually use regular paint which insidiously provides additional moisture in support of the underlying mold issue – worsening an already costly situation.

How to Avoid It: Before your remediation contractor begins, ask him if he intends to use an encapsulant and, if so, insist that whatever product he uses must dry clear. No solid color encapsulates and no KILZ. Secondly, before your contractor applies an encapsulant, ask him to take you into the containment area (the work area) and explain to you why he believes encapsulation is necessary.

This is different than a professional contractor who has performed the necessary remediation and then applies a preventive shield – ask about their warranty coverage to uncover any suspect disclaimers or restrictive limits of liability. Tips on Encapsulation: Before encapsulation can be considered: Whatever water problem that occurred which led to mold growth must be corrected and unlikely to occur again. Mold will grow on encapsulating materials if the materials get wet. All mold growth has been removed from surfaces where it is possible to remove it.

Encapsulating is not an alternative to mold remediation. The substrate or surfaces to be encapsulated must be completely dry. Otherwise mold will grow right through the encapsulant. Encapsulating mold growth may not be safe or an adequate safeguard where immune compromised people live.

Encapsulating should be considerably less expensive than actually removing all of the mold contaminated materials. Encapsulation is not a permanent fix. Completely removing all of the contaminated material is always best. Encapsulates are very limited in their effectiveness and should not be confused with anti-microbial bonding agents that work specifically to deny mold spores the ability to grow by separating them from their food sources. Encapsulates, by their nature and design, leave mold spores in place on their food sources and are not effective in inhibiting future growth and damage.

Mold Scam # 4: Mold Remediation with Chemical Bio-cides

The goal of mold remediation is to remove or clean mold contaminated materials in a way that prevents the emission of mold and dust contaminated with mold from leaving a work area and entering an occupied or non-remediation area, while protecting the health of workers performing the mold remediation.  The goal is not to kill the mold it’s to collect and remove it.

The first step in solving an indoor mold problem is stopping the source of moisture. Next is to remove the mold growth.  Next is the proper cleaning and removal of mold contaminated personal property and building material. The proper method is the collection and removal of the mold. Improper methods for cleaning mold include the application of fungicides and biocides to kill mold. These methods may render the mold non-viable (dead or incapable of growth); however, the mold and its by-products can still elicit negative health effects. The mold is still and allergen in your home until its removed.

A mold spore is an allergen that may or may not have the presence of mycotoxins.  Some of these mold spores have the ability to germinate and may eventually grow to be a colony.  To prevent this we correct the moisture that was supporting the mold growth and wala the mold will not have the available moisture to grow.  Now all we have to do is collect the remaining allergens (aka mold spores) and remove them from the home.

If we simply apply fungicides or biocides to kill the mold so it won’t grow we still have the mold spore or allergen that may or may not have the presence of mycotoxins.  But…the mold spores are still in your home, still an allergen, still have the potential of containing mycotoxins, and are now completely covered in a poison, just Wonderful.  And the poisonous mold still needs to be removed.

So to recap this scam; the mold remediation is sold as a process of killing the mold so it won’t harm you and that the fungicides or biocides are usually “Green”.  However the mold will be left in your home right along with the fungicides or biocides.  Your home will now have mold allergens and fungicides or biocides.

Below are a few of the resources that address the use of chemicals for remediation.

The ANSI approved IICRC S-520

Source removal of mold contamination should always be the primary means of remediation.  The Indiscriminant use of antimicrobial products, coatings, sealants, and cleaning chemicals is not recommended.

New York City Department of Health

“The use of gaseous, vapor-phase, or aerosolized biocides for remedial purposes is not recommended. The use of biocides in this manner can pose health concerns for people in occupied spaces of the building and for people returning to the treated space if used improperly.

American Industrial Hygiene Association

The goal of remediation is removal of mold and the moisture source because: a) biocides do not alter mycotoxins or allergens; b) it is generally not possible to get 100 percent kill with biocides; and c) because of (b), the newly deposited spores, re-growth will occur after the biocides if moisture returns.

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

“The purpose of mold remediation is to remove the mold to prevent human exposure and damage to building materials and furnishings. It is necessary to clean up mold contamination, not just to kill the mold. Dead mold is still allergenic, and some dead molds are potentially toxic.

Whether dead or alive, mold is allergenic, and some molds may be toxic. Mold can generally be removed from nonporous (hard) surfaces by wiping or scrubbing with water, or water and detergent. It is important to dry these surfaces quickly and thoroughly to discourage further mold growth. Instructions for cleaning surfaces, as listed on product labels, should always be read and followed. Porous materials that are wet and have mold growing on them may have to be discarded. Since molds will infiltrate porous substances and grow on or fill in empty spaces or crevices, the mold can be difficult or impossible to remove completely.

The EPA has not registered any products for sanitizing or disinfecting ductwork. Further, no fungicides are registered for use in ductwork. It is a violation of federal law to use a product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. For antimicrobials, this law is the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA). Therefore, any claims of sanitizing or disinfecting ductwork would require the use of a product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling, which is a violation of FIFRA.

How to Avoid It: The best way to avoid this scam is to only hire State Licensed Mold Remediators that follow the S520 Standard and Practice for Professional Mold remediation.  Always remember that the goal of mold remediation is not to kill the mold it’s to collect and remove the mold.  Remember without the water the mold won’t grow. I would consider that the “Greenest” fungicides or biocides available.

Mold Scam # 5: Ozone Generators:

Many sellers of ozone generators have jumped on the mold bandwagon. Resellers and dealers of ozone generators make false statements about the ability of ozone air purifiers to kill mold. It is not true. False advertisements of ozone devices often use misleading terms such as “energized oxygen” and “pure air” suggesting that ozone is a healthy kind of oxygen. The fact is, ozone is a toxic gas with vastly different chemical and toxicological properties from oxygen.

Claims that ozone generators sold as air purifiers are effective at controlling indoor air pollution are simply not true. Several federal agencies have established health standards or recommendations to limit human exposure to ozone.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has established an ozone level of .05 ppm (parts per million) as the maximum level allowable in an enclosed spaces. Relatively low amounts of ozone can cause chest pain, coughing, shortness of breath, and, throat irritation.

Ozone may also worsen chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma and compromise the ability of the body to fight respiratory infections. Exercise during exposure to ozone causes a greater amount of ozone to be inhaled, and increases the risk of harmful respiratory effects (US EPA, 1996a, 1996b). Some manufacturers and resellers of Ozone Generators sold as air purifiers claim that these products help to control mold.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, however, (EPA) these products may very well add to indoor air pollution and even make indoor mold conditions worse.

The EPA web site states that:

  • available scientific evidence shows that ozone has little potential to remove indoor air contaminants
  • ozone is not effective at removing viruses, bacteria, mold, or other biological pollutants
  • ozone is not even effective at removing odor-causing chemicals.

In fact, results from controlled studies show that some ozone generators produce unsafe concentrations of ozone even when a user follows the manufacturer’s operating instructions.

Buyer Beware: Beware of misleading advertising claims stating of implying that a particular brand of ozone generator is “EPA APPROVED”. Several brands of ozone generators have EPA establishment numbers on their packaging. This number helps EPA identify the specific facility that produces the product. The display of this number does not imply EPA endorsement or suggest in any way that EPA has found the product to be either safe or effective. The EPA does not certify air cleaning devices, recommend air cleaning devices or endorse manufacturers of air cleaning devices. For more information from the EPA regarding the use or effectiveness of ozone generators, please visit their web site at: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/ozonegen.html

www.FloridaIAQ.com

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