October 18, 2010
By The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI)
In order for air to move into or out of a house, there are two basic requirements. First, there must be a path through which the air travels, and second, there must be an air pressure difference to push the air molecules through the pathway. The relationship between air pressure and house tightness is integral to an understanding of how ventilation systems work.
Holes in houses
Even when all the windows are closed, there are still holes in houses—they just aren’t as noticeable. There are hidden gaps between the window or door frames and the 2x4s holding up the wall. There are even narrower gaps between the floor and the walls, and even smaller gaps around electrical outlets. There are also many hidden holes inside the structure that were cut through studs, floor joists, and rafters by plumbers, electricians, or heating/cooling contractors.
If it were possible to combine all of the small holes and gaps into one single hole, the result would be an opening of several square inches in a very tight house, or several square feet in a very loose house.
The holes are called random holes, because they weren’t created for the purpose of supplying the occupants with fresh air. If a hole is created on purpose, specifically to provide a pathway for air to travel through, it is called a deliberate hole. The installation of a controlled ventilation system requires one or more deliberate holes.
Pressures in houses
The pressures measured in houses are usually less than 50 Pascals (Pa). This may not seem like very much pressure, but it is enough to cause air to move through the random holes in a house and potentially cause some serious problems. For example, 3 Pa of negative pressure in the vicinity of a chimney is often enough to cause backdrafting (combustion gases flowing down a chimney instead of up).
Natural pressures caused by the wind and by temperature differences vary considerably day-to-day. Warm air exerts a small upward pressure as it rises up into cooler air.
Accidental pressures can be caused by leaky ducts, chimneys, or by mechanical equipment not specifically designed to ventilate a house, such as a clothes dryer. As with natural pressures, these positive and negative accidental pressures themselves are neither good nor bad, but sometimes they can cause pollution or moisture-related problems.
Pressure is also affected by mechanical equipment that is deliberately designed to exchange air in a building for the purpose of supplying fresh air or expelling stale air. This is what ventilation is really all about. This is called controlled ventilation—ventilation that is created “on purpose.”
Changing the tightness of a house
If you weatherize or tighten up a house to make it more energy-efficient, you will affect the amount of air being exchanged, as well as the pressures the house experiences. A window fan blowing into a tightened house will move less air, but you will also be able to measure an increase in pressure. Care must be taken so that the house is not under-ventilated, resulting in poor air quality. The answer is not loose houses—it is tight, energy-efficient, comfortable houses with mechanical ventilation systems.
Today, some energy-efficient builders are purposefully using special techniques to build houses that are almost hermetically sealed. Naturally occurring pressures don’t provide enough air to supply the needs of the occupants. A tight house must have a controlled mechanical ventilation system to supply it with fresh air and to remove stale air. Ventilation products certified by the Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) have been tested and proven to help homeowners maximize indoor air quality.
• John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
• Certified Indoor Environmental Consultant
• Microshield Environmental Services, LLC
• www.Microshield-ES.com
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 18, 2010
By Lynn Marie Bower
If mold or mildew becomes a problem in your bathroom, some less-toxic solutions are available for combating it other than the typical mildew-removal spray products sold in grocery stores. For example, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is one highly effective mold killer. (Note: This is the 3% dilution sold in pharmacies for use as an antiseptic.) To use this clear, odorless liquid, simply pour the hydrogen peroxide into a spray bottle and thoroughly spritz the affected areas: the bathroom fixtures, tile, and/or grout. Wearing protective eye wear is probably a good idea whenever you do this. Because hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent, avoid spraying it on shower curtains made of colored fabric. By the way, you can use alternative laundry bleaches made with hydrogen peroxide, too.
Another mold-killing option is full-strength white vinegar. Just apply it to the moldy areas, either with a sponge or a sprayer. Then leave it there a few minutes and rinse it off. (Some sensitive persons might find the vinegar odor bothersome.)
Yet another natural alternative is a solution of unscented borax and water, which can be used to sponge the affected areas. Try 1 tablespoon in 2 cups warm water. If that doesn’t remedy the situation, experiment with other dilutions. Afterwards, be sure to rinse. Be aware that borax also has a mild bleaching effect.
Another natural fungicide is pure tea tree oil. Try using it in a ratio of 2 teaspoons to 2 cups water and apply to the affected areas. Tea tree oil for mold killing can be purchased at most health-food stores.
In addition, some individuals have used antiseptic solutions, such as a diluted benzalkonium-chloride/water solution to deal with their mold and mildew problems. A benzalkonium-chloride/water solution may be available in your drugstore, although you may have to special order it. Suggested use is to apply the solution directly to the mold or mildew problem area. Rinsing it off is probably a good idea. This solution is relatively expensive and tends to have a mild, somewhat medicinal odor. Yet, many sensitive persons have found that they tolerate this product very well.
If you don’t feel like making your own homemade cleaners, there are also ready-made mold and mildew treatments that can be found without harsh chemicals or scents.
Note: Very sensitive persons, or those with mold allergies, should never do mold and mildew cleanup work themselves. Remember, also, that many mold-killing cleaners require from 1/2 minute up to 10 minutes of surface contact time to work properly. So don’t rush.
• John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
• Certified Indoor Environmental Consultant
• Microshield Environmental Services, LLC
• www.Microshield-ES.com
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 18, 2010
By The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI)
When you think about it, ventilation really is a people consideration. The purpose of ventilation is to provide a home’s occupants with clean, healthy, and comfortable air.
Ventilation is used to dilute pollutants and supply occupants with oxygen. Ventilation also dilutes high indoor humidity levels to prevent moisture-related problems such as mold growth and rot. Controlling excess moisture protects both the health of occupants and the health of the house.
While air infiltrating a house will dilute the concentration of indoor contaminants, natural infiltration is unreliable when compared to mechanical ventilation. In fact, it has been determined that houses with mechanical ventilation systems have better indoor air quality and use less energy than houses that rely on natural infiltration alone.
Sick-building syndrome
The words “sick-building syndrome” imply that a building is ill, when in fact the phrase refers to conditions which make the occupants ill—generally as a result of poor indoor air quality. Complaints may be reported after a building is remodeled. Pollutants released from construction products or cleaning solutions, microbial contamination of wet materials, and inadequate ventilation, are often cited as causes of sick-building syndrome.
Incidences of sick-building syndrome are on the rise. Fortunately, however, as more and more people grasp that poor indoor air quality might be the cause of their illnesses, they are cleaning up their indoor environment and improving their ventilation.
Sensitive occupants
Some people, due to pre-existing conditions (e.g., health, age) are more sensitive to contaminants in the air. Sensitive people require air that is much cleaner than normal in order to minimize negative impacts on their health. Their condition is often referred to as chemical sensitivity or multiple chemical sensitivity (MCS). Many of us are sensitive to “bad air” to a less debilitating degree – and all of us can derive a substantial benefit from breathing cleaner air.
Individuals with MCS generally exhibit a wide variety of symptoms. Eye and respiratory irritation are common, but headaches are also widely reported. Other symptoms can range from joint and muscle pain to seizures. Because the brain is very sensitive to some pollutants, MCS patients often report symptoms such as depression and anxiety that are related to poor indoor air quality.
Sensitive people’s bodies react to very low levels of a wide variety of pollutants. So, for sensitive occupants, it is imperative to clean up the indoor air through source control and separation, then use a mechanical ventilation system to keep the air clean.
Diluting high moisture levels
Although moisture itself isn’t a pollutant, with an accumulation over several days, it can contribute to a variety of pollution problems in a house. If there is excess moisture in a house in the form of high humidity, there can easily be a proliferation of biological pollutants. Mold, mildew, or dust mites will start to thrive as the humidity rises, and the occupants may start experiencing allergy or asthma symptoms. Inside the living space, moisture can be released from both people and their activities. Spot ventilation in the kitchen and bath, along with a whole-house ventilation system will help to expel excess moisture from a house.
People need fresh air
Those who are at greatest risk for sensitivity to contaminated indoor air are children, the elderly, and the sick. But we all need fresh air. We spend between 80–90% of our time indoors, so we must ensure that the air is comfortable and healthy. Properly installed ventilation products that have been certified by the Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) will ensure that you receive proper ventilation to maximize indoor air quality.
John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 18, 2010
By The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI)
There are four basic strategies for improving air quality. First, it is important to always practice source control and separation; then a proper mechanical ventilation system should be used to reduce the pollutants. Finally, filtration can clean up remaining pollutants, that is, polish the air.
Strategy 1: Source control is simply eliminating the source of a pollutant. For instance, if you use cleaning products low in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), you won’t add those pollutants to the indoor air every time you clean the house.
Strategy 2: Practicing separation means creating a barrier between the occupied part of the house and the pollution source. If a pollutant can’t reach you, it can’t harm you. So, an airtight house can be a good way to separate pollutants such as those coming from insulation from the occupants.
Strategy 3: Ventilation is more than just air circulation between rooms—although that is a part of its purpose. With ventilation, there must be an exchange of air between the indoors and the outdoors. The best and most efficient way to exchange the air in a house is to rely on a mechanical ventilation system, which can be controlled, rather than relying on natural or accidental air pressure changes which may not occur as frequently as desired or in the areas of the house where the air changes are most needed, such as the bathroom or kitchen.
Strategy 4: Filtration is often combined with ventilation to maintain good indoor air quality. Filters capture airborne pollutants but they do not bring in fresh air, remove excess humidity, nor create oxygen; therefore, they should not be relied on as a substitute for a mechanical ventilation system
Two types of controlled ventilation systems
A high-volume local ventilation system is good for dealing with the occasional peak pollution levels or excess moisture in specific rooms. Local ventilation is desirable in bathrooms, kitchens, and other service rooms that regularly have high levels of moisture or pollution. Sometimes local ventilation is called spot ventilation because it ventilates one spot in a house.
General ventilation is referred to as whole-house ventilation because it is for every room in the house. Some people call general ventilation primary or basic ventilation because its purpose is to provide the air that occupants need on a continual basis. After all, human health is a primary consideration. A whole-house ventilation system is a relatively new term for a mechanical system that moves air through a house continuously at a relatively low flow rate. The purpose of a whole-house ventilation system is to provide a continuous air change for fresh air to maintain healthy conditions for the occupants and the building itself, not to cool the temperature of the living space. So the purpose of a whole-house ventilation system is very different from the purpose of a whole-house fan or whole-house comfort ventilator.
Consult with your builder or ventilation contractor to ensure that your house has proper mechanical ventilation. Ensure the quality of your indoor air by using ventilation products certified by the Home Ventilating Institute.
Adapted from: Understanding Ventilation: How to design, select, and install residential ventilation systems by John Bower © 2010 The Home Ventilating Institute
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 18, 2010
Tenants blame health problems on mold
Janet Portman
Rent It Right
October 8, 2010
Q. My tenants have alerted me to a water leak in their apartment. It must have been there for some time, because there’s a lot of mold under the sink. They’ve measured the amount of mold in the airspace, using a kit they bought, and are telling me that the levels are high and may have made them sick. What should I do?
A. The first thing you should do is to advise your tenants to keep the cupboard doors shut under the sink, to contain the air.
Next, you need to find the source of the water leak. You may have a burst or leaking pipe or pipe fitting; moisture under the floor from poor drainage; or a leak in your gutter system, allowing rainwater to penetrate the walls. You may need to tear out the wall or do other work to get your answer. If the wall is soaked with mold, it will definitely have to be replaced.
You mention that your tenants have “measured” the mold levels using a commercial product. You should know that the trustworthiness of such products is uncertain.
According to the Centers for Disease Control, “measurements of mold in air are not reliable or representative.” While there may be a potential health risk when mold is visible or can be smelled, it’s not possible to gauge that risk using kits like these. Moreover, individuals respond to mold differently: What may irritate one person might have no effect on another.
An allergic reaction to mold — including sneezing; throat, nose, and mouth irritation; nasal congestion; and red or watery eyes — is the most common response among people who are sensitive.
Of course, these problems can be caused by other factors, such as pollen and other environmental triggers (natural and man-made). For this reason, it is very difficult to know for sure whether the cause of an allergic response is the presence of mold (or more precisely, the toxins that some molds produce) or something else entirely.
Your tenants haven’t given you enough information to enable you to know whether their “sickness” is the result of the mold under the sink. They would need to consult with a doctor at the very least. Even then, the doctor would probably not be able to say with certainty whether the mold under the sink accounts for their issues.
That’s not the end of the story, however. Just because it’s difficult to pin some health problems on mold doesn’t mean you should not take your tenants’ report seriously. For good tenant relations alone, listen to them and consider underwriting a night or two at a local motel while your workers deal with the leak and remove the moldy building materials.
This will not only demonstrate your good will, it’s also good business sense. Tenants who feel they have a good-faith problem that the landlord is ignoring are the ones who march off to find lawyers.
Although it’s doubtful that these tenants could ultimately pin their health complaints on the mold, they can certainly make you spend time and money dealing with their claims (and your insurance company).
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 7, 2010
How do I know if I have mold in my house?:
There are several different methods to find out if you have mold in your home. Many signs of mold can be found visually, like spots of discoloration or “fuzzy” patches. A sure sign that you had mold is that “musty” smell that often occurs in basements, which is caused by the odor of certain varieties of mold spores. If you cannot see or smell any signs of mold, having your home tested will help you determine if mold is hiding in your home. There are many different professional mold testing services as well as do-it-yourself test kits that will help you determine if you have more mold spores in your home than is healthy.
Do only older homes have mold problems?:
No; older homes can sometimes harbor less mold spores than newly constructed homes. Though older homes are more likely to have older and possibly decaying wood, grout and carpeting that mold will feed on, newer homes are just as susceptible to mold growth. In the case of new, energy-efficient homes, their almost air tight construction causes allergens like mold to be condensed, whereas drafty, older homes allow the number of mold spores to dissipate.
When is it time to get professional help with mold?:
There are 3 instances where is is important to contact a professional mold remediation service:
•If you can see black mold (which could be the highly toxic Stachybotrys mold)
•If you have had 24 or more hours of standing flood water in your home
•If mold is covering more than 2 square feet in your home
Check your yellow pages under “Fire and Water Damage Restoration” or “Mold Remediation” for local clean-up services.
Is there a way to treat my mold allergies?:
Over the counter allergy medications will help with the symptoms caused by mold allergies. If you have a severe reaction to mold, you might want to visit an allergist order to find out the best treatment for your allergies.
How can I tell is a certain day will be worse than another for my mold allergies?
Along with pollen counts, often the mold spore count for your area is available through websites like theAsthmaCenter.org. This will help you to determine which days will impact your allergies.
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 7, 2010
Eliminate Damp Areas: The one essential element that mold needs to grow inside your home is moisture – so if you remove the source of moisture, you will keep mold from gaining a foothold. Th way to do this is to make sure that there are no leaks in plumbing or around chalk, grout or bath and kitchen fixtures. Install a sub pump in your basement if storms cause even minor flooding. Ventilate your bathroom while you are taking a shower and up to 30 minutes afterwards. Make sure that you close you shower curtain when you’re done to make sure that it dries completely. A closed shower curtain stores moisture in all the folds of the plastic and is one of the first places you will see mold. Lastly, run a dehumidifier to take excess moisture out of the air. The less available moisture, the less hospitable your home is to mold!
Don’t Sniff, Just Toss: The classic method of checking on whether a forgotten container of food is still good or not is opening the lid and sniffing it. Next time you need to do a feshness-check, just take a look at the expiration date or take a quick peek inside. If the date on the package has passed or you suspect that something is going bad – just throw it away. If you can’t bear to part with potentially good food, make sure that you enlist the nose of someone who does not have allergies. Taking a whiff of old foods (especially milk and dairy products, fruit or vegetables) get the mold spores that have concentrated inside food containers straight into your nasal cavity and lungs – it’s a recipe for an allergy or asthma attack.
Use HEPA Filters Throughout the House: HEPA filters are recommended by allergists and doctors as the most effective method of removing airborne allergens before they reach your nose and lungs. Air Filters may also use a combination of HEPA filters and activated carbon to remove even the smallest allergens. Both HEPA and carbon filters are completely same for asthma sufferers, so often find electrostatic and o-zone creating filters cause their lungs more harm than good. Dynamic panel filters slide into existing slots on your furnace or air conditioning and remove 99% of mold spores before they hit the rest of your home.
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 7, 2010
There are a few main factors that determine whether a person will be prone to developing mold spore allergies:
1.Hereditary: If members of your family currently have or had problems with allergies, you are more likely to have allergies as well. If both of your parents are allergic to mold (or anything else for that matter), you have a 75% chance of developing mold allergies as well. If only one parent – or relatives on only one side of your family-has allergies, your chances of being allergic to mold drops to 50%. Individuals with asthma are also more likely to be allergic to mold, especially if they are also allergic to other allergens, like dust mites or animal dander.
2.Exposure: People who live in humid climates or areas prone to flooding are more likely to find mold growing in their homes. Depending on the age of the house, layout, ventilation and cleaning habits, one house may have a far higher amount of mold spores in the air than another. The higher the concentration of mold spores indoors, the better the chances of developing allergic sensitivity from exposure. Outdoor mold can also be a problem, but it is the year-round indoor mold that causes the most trouble when it comes to developing allergies. Occupations with high mold exposure are: farming, dairy work, logging, baking, millwork, carpentry, greenhouse work, winemaking and furniture repair.
3.Age: Mold allergies and prevalent in all age groups, but young children with a family history of allergies or mold exposure are more likely to develop mold allergies.
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 6, 2010
Mold only needs a few things to grow and multiply:
•Nutrients (food)
•A suitable place to grow
•Moisture
Many building materials (such as wood, sheetrock, etc.) provide food that can support mold growth. Even dust that has settled on these materials or furniture can be a food source for molds. Molds can grow almost anywhere there is enough moisture or high humidity. Controlling moisture is the key to stopping indoor mold growth, because all molds require water to grow. Moisture can come from:
•Flooding from the outside (storm water, overflowing lakes, streams, storm surge, etc.)
•Flooding from the indoor (overflow from sinks, tubs, toilets, air conditioner drain pans or sewerage systems)
•Condensation (caused by indoor humidity that is too high or surfaces that are too cold)
•Water leaks from outside the building (roof, walls, floors)
•Indoor plumbing leaks or broken water pipes
•Outdoor sprinkler spray hitting the walls, or indoor fire sprinklers
•Poor venting of kitchen and bathroom moisture (steam from shower or cooking)
•Humidifier use
•Drying wet clothes indoors, or not venting clothes dryers outdoors (including electric dryers)
•House plants (over watering, etc.)
•Moisture from our bodies (sweat, wet hair on pillows, breath)
•Warm, moist air from outdoors
•Liquid spills
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
October 6, 2010
Water is the key. Without it, mold growth cannot start, much less multiply and spread. The easiest way to prevent the mold from gaining a foothold is to control dampness. Keep your home clean and dry. When water stands for even 24 hours, common molds can take hold. Keeping humidity levels below 60% and venting moisture from showering and cooking to the outside are several ways to prevent the conditions that can lead to mold growth. Other ways include:
•Clean and dry up spills within 24 hours
•Dry out wet building materials and carpets within 24 hours
•Use an air conditioner or a dehumidifier to reduce the indoor humidity levels below 60%. If you have a central air conditioning system and need a dehumidifier to reduce relative humidity below 60%, you should have the air conditioning system examined for problems
•Do not carpet bathrooms or basements
Note: While most experts suggest a relative humidity of less than 60%, below 50% is best for controlling both mold growth and dust mites. Dust mites are microscopic animals related to spiders, ticks and other mites. Dust mites eat mold and dead human or animal skin scales (flakes) and leave allergenic proteins. Dust mites reduce allergen production at these lower humidity levels.
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Posted by John P. Lapotaire, CIEC
Indoor Air Quality Solutions, IAQS 